Alpha Hydroxy and Beta Hydroxy
Both “Alpha Hydroxy” (AHAs) and “Beta Hydroxy” (BHAs) are considered as a mild and superficial peel.
What are Alpha Hydroxy acids (AHAs)?
AHAs are a group of acids that are often found in fruit, sour milk, sugar and other products processed through bio-fermentation. AHAs are the mildest of the chemical peel formulas and produce light skin peels.
Types of AHA’s typically used in chemical peels for skin are:
- Glycolic Acid – Derived from sugar canes (most popular).
- Lactic Acid – Derived from milk.
- Malic Acid – Derived from apples and pears.
- Citric Acid – Derived oranges and lemons.
- Tartaric Acid – Derived from grapes.
How do AHAs work?
It work mainly as an exfoliant. They cause the cells of the skin (epidermis) to become “unglued”, degrading the lipids that hold the most outer layer of dead skin cells to slough off, making room for re-growth of smoother, brighter and younger-looking, new skin. In addition AHAs stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which provides greater strength and protect these skin cells. The result is skin that is smooth in appearance and texture.
What are Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) ?
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are closely related to alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) but differ slightly in their molecular structure and mode of action. BHAs are all synthetically made unlike AHAs which are extracted from plants and fruits. The most popular BHA is Salicylic acid which is synthesized in the lab from the bark off the willow tree and is similar in chemical formula to the well-known Aspirin which is acetylsalicylic acid.
Types of BHAs typically used in chemical peels for skin are:
- Salicylic acid (most popular).
- Trethocanic acid.
- Willow extract.
- Beta hydroxybutanoic acid.
- Tropic acid,Trethocanic acid.
Glycolic Acid Chemical Peel
Most popular Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), mainly used for skin rejuvenation as an anti-aging.
Glycolic Acid is generally regarded to be the most active and beneficial of the Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids (AHA) in skin care. Once applied, glycolic acid reacts with the outer layer of skin (epidermal) cells, weakening the binding properties of the lipids (the ‘glue’) that hold the dead cells together. This is the mechanism that allows the damaged outer skin layer to “peel” off to reveal the underlying new skin cells, thus giving your skin an even, untarnished texture. In addition, glycolic acid can penetrate into the new skin cell’s membrane, stimulating them to generate collagen and elastic fibers that improves and strengthens.
Salicylic acid Peel
Most popular Beta Hydroxy Acid ( BHA ), mainly used for oily inflamed infected skin as acne treatment
Salycylic acid is a common beta hydroxy acid, has been used for treating acne for decades. In fact, acne treatment remains the primary use for beta hydroxy acids. Its effect on the epidermis and upper dermis are similar to those of Retin-A, but with less irritation. It is soluble in oil and can exfoliate oily skin areas, even within oil-rich pores. Therefore, it has a beneficial effect on acne, pigmentary disturbances, and sun damaged skin. Because it does exfoliate, it has recently been added to formulations for chemical skin peel(s). Beta Chemical peels can truly retexturize the skin.
Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties therefore it controls the irritation occurring after chemical peel. It is soluble is lipids (fats and oils) so it is more effective with oily skin. It penetrates the oily skin easily so it cleans the pores and removes accumulated sebum and bacterias. This makes Salicylic acid to be especially effective for acne treatments.
How does AHA or BHA peel works?
AHA and BHA both work by breaking the bonds that holds dead skin cells in place. This allows the cells to be slugged and new skin synthesis be stimulated.
How does AHA or BHA peel performed?
Initially skin is degrease with a solution or cleanser so that the acid can penetrates the skin in an even tone. Then the acid is applied to the skin and skin reaction is going to be watched closely. You might need multiple coats of acid application or higher acid concentration for desired skin reaction. For glycolic acid or if skin is overreacting the acid on the treated area can be neutralized with bicarbonate immediately. After expected skin reaction is achieved, the acid is washed off of the skin with warm water. If needed ice pack or/and topical anti-inflammatory cream is applied. After we make sure the skin reaction is under control you can apply sun block and leave. The entire procedure takes between 15 to 20 minutes.
Combined acid peels
This is when multiple acid are in one peel solution. The popular combo-peels are as followed:
- Jessner’s peel solution originally from Germany. This solution is a combination of Salicylic acid, Lactic acid, and resorcinol in an ethanol base.
- Cosmolane peel has Retin-A as an peeling agent combined with multiple pigmentation correcting agents.
- Vi-peel is a combination of…